Categories
Cakes The Book

32. Flourless Chocolate Cake p.739


the recipe

This cake will make you believe flour and leavening were just getting in the way of every cake you’ve ever made before. It’s the chocolate cake equivalent of shortbread, the essence of the dish with all the frills stripped away. Cheap butter spoils shortbread; cheap chocolate would spoil this cake. There’s nothing in here but chocolate, butter, sugar, eggs, and enough cocoa powder to hold it together (the linked recipe makes an 8 inch cake’s worth, The Book’s a 10 inch).

The cake is moist, dense, rich, and intensely chocolaty. It’s elegant enough for any dinner party, and decadent enough to drown your sorrows in. It also comes together as easily as a batch of brownies. In fact there are a lot of similarities between this cake and really really good brownies. An article in the NY Times Dining and Wine section this week (link, username and password = metafilter) suggests that brownies may be fine dining after all.

I really appreciated the versatility of this cake. It would be a great finish to a romantic dinner, it travels well, it gets around a lot of dietary restrictions (no flour, no nuts), and it will appeal to the kids as much as the grown ups. This cake is forthright, unapologetically bad for you, requires nothing you don’t have on hand, takes 20 minutes, and most importantly it’s tasty.

Categories
Fruit Desserts The Book

20. Strawberry Rhubarb Crumble p. 812

Sorry no recipe for this one

This was a very straightforward no surprises crumble. Incredibly easy to put together, and bursting with summer flavours. I grew up on this stuff. Mom was guaranteed to make a least a couple of these during the height of strawberry season, and we were usually good for one more in the fall with the strawberries she’d frozen.

I love the sweet-sour interplay of the strawberries and rhubarb. The balance between sweet and tart is the key to this dish. You absolutely have to add sugar or the rhubarb will make the whole thing sour, but too much and the magic is gone. Here I think they overdid it a bit on the sugar. They call for 1 – 1 1/4 cups of sugar for 2 lbs of strawberries and 1 1/2 lbs of rhubarb. I went for a cup of sugar as my berries were quite sweet, and the final dish was still more sugary than I would have preferred. I would definitely cut the sugar a bit and up the lemon juice. I’ve said it before, but the people at Gourmet really do like their desserts sweeter than I do.

I really enjoyed the simple rolled oats topping (just oats, flour, brown sugar, salt, and butter). It didn’t come out as a very crumbly crumble, more of a big cookie on top of the fruit filling, but it was wonderfully moist and the oats gave it a nice texture to contrast with the fruit.

This was a delicious crumble, but almost all strawberry-rhubarb crumbles are delicious crumbles. This was a pretty standard recipe that didn’t bring anything new to the table, or really decipher the formula which turns simple into deceptively simple. Excellent result, but an average recipe.

Categories
Fruit Desserts The Book

11. Cherry Clafouti p. 817

This was a very straightforward dish, an eggy batter poured over cherries and baked until puffed and golden. It was very easy to put together, the whole batter is made in the blender, and the addition of almond and vanilla extracts as well as kirsh gave it some complexity of flavour. I’m always happy to see kirsh turn up on an ingredient list, because other than fondue au fromage, I’m not quite sure what to do with it.

The recipe recommends pitting the cherries, but gives the option to leave them whole. I left them au naturel and warned my guests. We didn’t have any incidents at dinner, however the next day I bit down on a cherry stone and may have loosened a tooth. The final dish was quite sweet, but I believe this was my fault. In rereading the recipe I notice that it called for sour cherries, and I’m fairly sure I used Bings from the grocery store. The sour cherries would have been welcome here, or if using sweet, cut the sugar.

This dish is located in the Fruit Desserts chapter of the book, but I think it would be more at home in with the Breakfast and Brunch section. It was billed as being “halfway between custard and cake”, turns out this is the state known as pancake. I was hoping it would be less sweet and more boozy, but as I mentioned that was probably my fault.